Wheel Care for 88/188 Hubs
Quick Release Tension
Your hubs are tightened to 10 Nm (88 in-lbs) in the rear, and 5.6 Nm (50 in-lbs) in the front. We recommend applying the quick release lever such that the lever leaves a slight imprint on your hand as you close it. If you have any questions or concerns about the operation of the quick release lever, please consult your bike shop or call us at the number listed above.
Brake Pads for Tubular Wheelsets
For optimal performance, Zipp Carbon/Carbon brake pads provide the ideal balance of feel and stopping power, and help rims remain cool. Zipp Carbon/Carbon brake pads are the only pads specific to both aluminum and silica/ceramic brake surfaces.
Do not alternate the same set of pads between rims with aluminum and carbon/ ceramic braking surfaces, as residual embedded aluminum shards could damage the carbon/ceramic surface.
Do not use Campagnolo pads, or any pad purporting to be for ceramic rims. Most ceramic pads contain abrasives which can lead to excessively high brake temperatures and possible rim damage.
For cyclo-cross applications and cantilever brakes, we recommend using Kool-Stop black pads.
Brake Pads for Clincher Wheelsets
We recommend using Zipp Carbon/Carbon brake pads with any aluminum braking surface, including our own clincher wheels. Standard brake pads will work, but might cause premature wear to the braking surface due to the use of abrasives such as aluminum oxide in the pads. As discussed with our tubular rims, we do not recommend using Campagnolo pads.
Care and Cleaning
Any cleaner that will not affect epoxy resins is acceptable for your rims. Acetone or denatured alcohol work quite well on the rims but will ruin the decals, so be careful when using. Goof Off® or any product intended to remove latex paint will also work well to remove tubular tire glue. Do not use any tools to install tubular tires on or remove them from your carbon rims.
Aluminum Valve Extensions
Your wheel was supplied with a valve extension matched to the depth of the rim. We currently have five different lengths of valve extenders:
- 27 mm / 1.05" for 202 wheels
- 33 mm / 1.3" for 303 wheels
- 48mm / 1.9" for 404/909 front/606 front wheels
- 74 mm / 2.9" for 808/999 front/606 rear wheels
- 98 mm / 3.86" for 1080 wheels
Valve Extension Installation
Note: Install valve extension BEFORE mounting tire.
- Unscrew tire valve locknut as far as possible, and tighten in the fully open position.
- Stretch a wrap of plumber’s tape (available at a hardware store) around the end of the valve so that the tape extends over both the narrow valve cap threads and the wider valve body.
- Make sure that the tape does not stretch over the air opening at the end of the valve. Plumber’s tape comes in several thicknesses. If thinner tape is used, more than one layer might be needed to seal properly. Tape should be replaced each time the extension is removed.
- Screw the valve extension onto the end of the valve and tighten, using a 3mm Allen key inserted into the end of the extension.
Your wheels have been trued and checked here by our professional wheel builders. The spoke tension on our carbon wheels is 100 kg front/rear drive side and about 65 kg rear non-drive. Before truing or adjusting spoke tension, apply a drop of lube (such as Triflow) between the nipple and rim. This will reduce friction between the two surfaces and lessen the chances of rounding off a nipple.
Important: Only experienced mechanics should perform advanced wheel service!
Our rims are sized at the larger end of the European ISO/E.T.R.T.O. standards for tire fit, to ensure maximum confidence and safety when using the modern ultra-light high performance clinchers.
Rim Tape for Clincher Rims
You must use a thin plastic or thin fabric rim strip with these rims for proper performance. Do not use Velox or a similarly thick cloth rim strip. We recommend using our own Zipp rim tape, which is a durable, yet thin, woven tape. It has been designed specifically to work best with our clincher rims.
We rate our clincher rims at 125 psi MAX, which ensures that tires will not go overpressure when hot from braking and also leads to increased tire life.
Gluing A Tubular
WHAT YOU WILL NEED: Tubular glue of your choice. Do not use 3M Fast Tack. The aggressive tack is prone to damage tires on removal. Solvent, such as alcohol or acetone, works very well for removing most glue.
Prepare the Rim For Glue
If the rim is new, wipe it down with alcohol or another solvent such as acetone, which is also recommended to remove old glue. The Zipp carbon rim can be cleaned with any solvent that will not harm epoxy. Zipp Carbon rims are ready to go at this point and require no further preparation.
Glue the Rim and Tire
- First, coat the rim by putting a thin uniform layer of glue on the tire seating area of the rim. Thin coats of glue work better than thicker ones. To apply the glue, lay a bead of the cement around the center of the tire seat area of the rim, skipping over the spoke holes if possible. Use the plastic bag over your finger or acid brush to spread the glue evenly from edge to edge of the tire seating area all around the rim. Avoid getting glue in the spoke holes as much as possible. Set the rim aside for a couple of hours to let the glue dry.
- Most tires will turn inside out when inflated off of a rim. Inflate the tire until it turns the base tape facing upward, and then place the tire on a flat surface to apply a layer of glue. Spread a bead of glue onto the center of the tire base tape. Spread the glue evenly across the base tape. Set the tire aside for a couple of hours to dry. Clean up any glue drips around the area with a solvent. Re-coat the rim and tire with a second thin layer of glue, using the same procedure as before. Remember these need to be THIN and even coats of glue.
- Let the second layer dry for several hours until it’s only slightly tacky. After the glue on the rim and tire has dried, apply another thin layer to the rim only and let it dry for about 15 minutes. (When installing a tire on a previously glued rim, you can usually apply just a single thin uniform layer of new glue to the rim and tire. After 15 minutes, or when the glue becomes tacky, mount the tire according to the method outlined in these instructions). Can you use TUFO® tape? Yes and no—in other words, at your own risk.
Mounting the Tire
- Make sure to pushdown firmly on the area around the valve before beginning to stretch the tire over the rim. It will be easier to finish rolling the last bit of the tire onto the rim if you maintain a firm pressure from the very beginning of the mounting process. Take care that the tire is centered and that an even amount of base tape is sticking out on both sides around the rim. At this point you can still move the tire around on the rim a bit by tugging and pushing it into place.
- Pump up the tire to around 50 psi. Spin the wheel while visually ensuring that the tire is centered in the tire bed. An even amount of base tape should be visible on either side of the wheel. You might find that the tread moves back and forth as the wheel spins, or that the tire is off-center. Deflate the tire and push or twist it over where required. Re-inflate and check again, repeating the process as needed.
- Carefully clean any excess glue on the rim sidewall with solvent. Keep the solvent away from the tire! Pump up the tire to 120 psi, and let it sit overnight to bond firmly. Check the tire pressure before each ride. Check the glue bond occasionally. Remove and re-glue the tire as needed, or at least once a season.