MODEL 217 HUB
ZIPP 217 Hub Maintenance
- Hey, this is easy! Normal maintenance of the ZIPP 217 cassette hub requires regular lubrication of the cassette bushings with ZIPP LUBE. One tube of ZIPP Lube is supplied with each new hub with additional tubes available directly from ZIPP Speed Weaponry or your ZIPP dealer. CAUTION: USE ONLY THE RECOMMENDED LUBRICANTS. OTHER BRANDS AND TYPES WILL CAUSE STICKING OF THE CASSETTE MECHANISM AND MAY RESULT IN NON-WARRANTY DAMAGE TO THE CASSETTE MECHANISM.
- Lubricate the hub every 300-500 miles. The cassette body is floating on a thin film of lubricant that must be replenished. Lubrication intervals will vary with riding conditions and may need to be done more frequently. Individual riders will determine a lubrication cycle which works best for them. Need for lubrication may be indicated by a change in the sound of the cassette mechanism or in extreme cases a loose cassette body which may rattle on rough road surfaces.
- Always lubricate your ZIPP 217 cassette hub after a wet ride.
- To Lubricate: On the back side of the drive side hub flange you will find a lube port. This is indicated with a laser etched "LUBE" and arrow pointing to the port. Carefully remove the black lube port plug with finger tips or a tweezers. The port plug is a two part item. The female part is supposed to remain in the hub flange, but if both parts come out don't panic. Separate the two and replace both individually after lubrication.
- ZIPP LUBE users will inject about 1- 2cm of lube by pushing in the plunger applicator.
- Place the wheel with the cassette body facing down. Inject 1-2cm of ZIPP LUBE while rotating the cassette body.
- Replace the lube port cover. You are now finished. Go ride!
NOTE: The following is only necessary in extreme cases where the hub has been ridden dry for an extended period of time. Lubricate your 217 regularly and this is something you can forget about! A DRY OR UNDER LUBRICATED HUB MAY ALSO EXPERIENCE STICKING OF THE CASSETTE MECHANISM. LUBRICATE THE HUB PER THE INSTRUCTIONS ABOVE. A HUB WHICH HAS BEEN ALLOWED TO DRY COMPLETELY, OR HAS HAD THE LUBE WASHED OUT, MAY REQUIRE ADDITIONAL LUBRICANT AROUND THE BEARING CUP. THIS IS SOMETIMES INDICATED BY A HIGH PITCHED SQUEAL. REMOVE THE CASSETTE LOCK RING. YOU WILL SEE A KNURLED SPACER ON THE AXLE AND A RUBBER SEAL AROUND THE BOTTOM OF THAT SPACER. SLIDE A KNIFE OR SMALL SCREWDRIVER BLADE UNDER THE RUBBER SEAL AND PRY UP. BOTH THE RUBBER SEAL AND SPACER WILL COME OFF EASILY TOGETHER. THE BEARING CUP IS THE DARK COLORED PART WHICH HOLDS THE BEARING. WITH THE FREE HUB BODY FACING UP, PUT A HEAVY BEAD OF LUBRICANT AROUND THE EXTREME OUTSIDE EDGE OF THE BEARING CUP. SPIN THE CASSETTE BODY BY HAND TO WORK THE LUBRICANT INTO PLACE. REASSEMBLE AND GO RIDING. AND IN THE FUTURE, KEEP THAT HUB LUBED!
ZIPP 217 Hub Disassembly
IN 99% OF ALL CASES THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NO NEED TO DISASSEMBLE A 217 HUB! PLEASE TRY ALL THE OTHER RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES OR CALL US WITH ANY QUESTIONS YOU MAY HAVE.
- Remove right and left axle end caps and left side outer seal (pry outer edge with razor knife point). Stand hub vertically with left (non-drive) end up, supported so that the right (cassette side) axle end and bearing can be driven out of the hub.
- Use a mallet or press to drive the left axle end through the hub. To prevent damage to the axle, do not strike the end of the aluminum axle directly with a metal hammer. Use a soft-faced mallet or cover the axle end with a wood or plastic block while striking with a metal hammer. The axle and right bearing will be pushed out through the cassette side of the hub.
- STOP! If you are only removing the axle and bearings, go no further! Skip ahead to the instructions to re-install the bearings and axle.
- Using a pin spanner (Park Tool Co. SPA-2 or similar work well...grinding of the tool tips surrounding the pins may be necessary to allow insertion into the cassette bushing) or careful use of a drift punch, engage the slots (older hubs) or pin holes (current) of the cassette side bushing and unscrew bushing in the counterclockwise direction from the cassette assembly (normal right hand threads).
- With the cassette bushing fully unthreaded, slowly pull the cassette body and bushing off of the hub. A slight twisting motion is helpful. Watch to be sure that pawl springs do not fall out and become lost.
- Remove all pawls and pawl springs from the cassette body pawl pocket.
- STOP! Read the rest of the disassembly instruction before going further! You may not need to disassemble the hub any more to accomplish the work you need to do!
- Remove the rear cassette bushing (fixed with adhesive to hub flange) by heating the bushing directly with a small torch flame while working a razor knife blade between the bushing and flange. Only a small amount of heat is necessary to overcome the bushing bond...overheating this area may damage the epoxy bond between the flange and carbon tube.
- Using a razor knife, carefully scrape away old adhesive residue. Degrease entire cassette mounting area of hub and flush with a non residue solvent (acetone recommended) to ensure completely dry, oil-free rear bushing mounting surface.
ZIPP 217 Hub Assembly
- Obtain a new rear cassette bushing, cassette body, and outer cassette bushing (NOTE: A brass thrust washer is not used in current SHIMANO-compatible cassette hubs. CAMPAGNOLO-compatible hubs do use a brass thrust washer between the outer cassette bushing and cassette body that is of different dimensions than older SHIMANO-type washers). Clean mounting surface of the rear bushing and threads of outer bushing using a non-residue solvent (acetone recommended) to ensure completely dry and oil-free surfaces.
- Bond new rear cassette bushing into place on the face of the cassette side hub flange using Loctite Black Max adhesive #380 (a toughened cyanoacrilate "instant adhesive". Apply adhesive in a thin bead or series of small dots on either the bushing or flange face. Slide the bushing over the cassette pawl pocket and quickly and completely press into place by fitting the new cassette body onto the bushing and using as a pressing tool.
- USE ONLY ZIPP LUBE LUBRICANT TO ASSEMBLE THE FREEHUB BODY.
- Lubricate all cassette pawl pockets using ZIPP LUBE lubricant, then install all ratchet pawls and springs into the hub.
- Lubricate the cassette mechanism by placing a bead of ZIPP LUBE lubricant around the cassette body contact surfaces of the rear bushing, outer faces of the ratchet pawls, and the ratchet teeth of the cassette body.
- Slide the cassette body into place over the ratchet pawl assembly and into the rear bushing channel.
- Apply a bead of ZIPP LUBE lubricant to the right side interior bushing surface of the cassette body and to the outside diameter and adjacent inner edge of the new outer cassette bushing. If a CAMPAGNOLO-type cassette, install the brass thrust washer into the internally threaded end of the cassette body and press fully into place against the ends of the ratchet teeth. The SHIMANO-type cassette uses no washer. Do not lubricate the bushing threads or flat area of contact with the pawl pocket end.
- Apply a drop of Loctite threadlocker #222 or #242 or equivalent light to medium duty thread sealant to the interior right side threads of the cassette pawl pocket, then thread the new outer cassette bushing into place. Tighten firmly with pin spanner.
- Check for free cassette body rotation and acceptable axial and radial play: Axial play should be no more than .010" (.25mm), radial play should be no more than .005" (.125mm).
The following steps tell how to re-install the axle and bearings after bearing replacement.
- Insert the axle and bearing assembly into the right (cassette side) end of the hub, and install the axle bearing into the outer cassette bushing by pressing on the bearing outside diameter only. Bearing is fully installed when outside diameter is slightly recessed into the bushing.
- Place the left side (non-cassette) bearing onto its axle end and install by pressing only on the inside diameters of both bearings.
- Install left side outer seal and both axle end caps. Check for axle bearing smoothness and the existence of clearance between the left axle end cap and left flange when hub clamped between frame dropouts. If no clearance exists, ensure that the inner cassette bushing is mounted flat to the right flange (no gap between parts), the outer cassette bushing is fully threaded into place, the right bearing is pressed fully into the outer cassette bushing, and that both bearings are fully pressed into place on the hub axle. You are now finished. (Yea!)