For road hub conversion please refer to this web page.
No Shimano road discs can be converted as the dish changes – you will have to buy a new disc to run Shimano 11 speed.
For older discs, you can run Campy 11 speed by adding a second 0.25mm washer between the drive side bearing and the Campy free hub.
Please see this web page for confirmation.
Zipp’s rider weight guidelines vary for different wheels. To find out the recommended maximum weight for a specific wheel, please click on the “Specs” tab on that wheel’s product information page.
The carbon dust caps are held in place on the axle cap by a couple of rubber grommets. The reason they are making a racket is that this grommet has come unseated and is allowing the cap to move freely. To fix find a couple of 5 mm allen keys and insert one into each axle cap on the hub (where the quick release runs through). Work these wrenches against each other (standard right hand thread) to loosen one end cap. Remove the axle and reseat the grommet against the back of the dust cap. You may even want to put down a bead of super glue or quick set epoxy behind the grommet to ensure that it does not move again. Allow glue to dry fully, reinstall axle, torque end caps to 55 in lb (88 in lb rear) and go ride.
The 2002-2008 Zipp hubs are different from most hubs in that they do not side load the bearings to remove play in the hub (think traditional cup and cone set-up). Our hub is designed such that the bearing race on the axle is aligned with the sealed bearing when the end caps on the axle are properly torqued. Since the axle is not press fit into place it will have some lateral movement when the wheel is unweighted. Once a rider's weight is added to the system, the bearing becomes loaded vertically and the play then disappears. By designing the hub this way, it is possible to extend bearing life and make a hub that will turn much smoother leading to a faster wheel.
Why is Zipp not building wheels with hidden nipples? Doesn't having the nipple exposed increase the drag on the wheel?
We started moving in this direction in 2008 starting with the 202 and 1080 wheels. Common sense told us that by hiding the nipple, we would be making a wheel with less drag. We then built prototypes for testing. Surprisingly, in our testing we found that hiding the nipple on our rims makes no less drag than having the nipple exposed at all wind angles. This, as it turns out, is due to the unique cross section of our rim. Our 360 rim makes the wind think that it is 70mm deep. Therefore, the final 12mm of spoke is shielded, allowing us to keep the nipples exposed for ease of wheel maintenance while not increasing drag. During 2009 we will be converting back to external nipples across our wheel range responding to customer feedback.
The '06 track axle is a composite part of aluminum and stainless steel, and gives the optical illusion of being bent.
Often it seems there is a very tight fit. Here is the work around:
Use play dough or plasticine to find the ideal weight by adding and subtracting material placed opposite to the valve hole. Do this with tire and valve extenders installed. Mix epoxy and sand, equivalent in weight to a lump of plasticine, required to balance the wheel (with a tire and valve extender) and place this opposite the valve hole through adjacent tire bed spoke holes - allowing the epoxy to settle and dry between the spoke holes on the inside of the rim.
This is not easy and entirely foolproof as the laser etching is only on one side of the bearing casing and this may be mounted so it is impossible to read unless you remove the bearings from their bore.
We only stock these ceramic bearing sizes: 61802, 61803, 61806 and 61902. Check the inner casing for the letter 'X' at the start of the bearing number e.g. X61802 or X61803.
If your decals are adhesive and not molded in, you can use a hair dryer to soften the glue, grab a corner and gently pull off, scrape the remainder off with your nails or a blunt popsicle stick, clean well with acetone or white spirits, allow to evaporate and apply the new decals.
If the original decals are molded in, (use the thumbnail test to feel for an edge) you will have to purchase a set of decals and apply them over the top. Molded in decals cannot be removed without structural damage to the rim.
Application: Peal or gently scrap off all parts of the old decal. Clean the rim well with soap and water and then use rubbing alcohol or acetone to remove any residual adhesive, grime or grease. Slowly peal the backing off the decal, position the new decal over the rim and apply starting in the center. Lay the decal down lightly, so you can lift and reposition, if the orientation is wrong. Work the air bubbles from the center towards the outside. Use a squeegee applicator (PA-1 from 3M) to work the decal into the dimples.
Orientation: Start 1/4 inch from the spoke bed. Place the first decal centered and opposite the valve hole. The center of the 2 remaining decals on that rim side will be 120 degrees from the first. The smaller valve hole decal is then placed in the center of the rim directly below the valve hole. No part of the decals should cover the brake tracks. Turn the rim over and repeat on the other rim side.
Zipp stopped manufacturing the Zipp frame at the end of 1997. We do not have any frames available for sale. We no longer have any parts for the frames, manuals or the tools to work on them. However, all frame questions can be answered by Dave Hill via email at email@example.com
Tire choice depends highly on user preference and conditions. To summarize, a 21mm has superior aerodynamics with our rims; a 23mm is larger and subsequently has better ride quality and rim protection, but at a slight aero penalty. Here are some questions you can ask that will help guide your decision:
Triathlon/Time trial? In general – 21mm.
Dry? 21mm at normal recommended pressure.
Smooth roads? 21mm at normal recommended pressure.
User prefers slight aero benefit of 21's at the expense of a little ride comfort, rim protection, and rolling resistance? Use 21mm.
Rider weighs less? 21mm.